-- From Adelaide to Rapid Bay, Kangaroo Island

On Monday March 1st, before leaving Adelaide I posted postcards, I filled the tanks with diesel and I returned to The Rubberman to buy a complement of supply. Then I headed the road on the western slope of Adelaide Hills to take a ferry from Cape Jervis to Penneshaw on the Kangaroo Island where I arrived around 2 p.m. After a stop at the Visitor Centre to see the Frenchman's Rock I moved towards the Cape Willoughby where I arrived too late for the visit of the Lighthouse. However rangers gave me full information. I turned back to bivouac at Chapman River, not terrible. A small driving day under a beautiful sun with a violent east wind causing a swell on which the ferry pitched and rolled.

Kangaroo Island

Kangaroo Island is the third largest island in Australia with 155 km long and 55 km wide located at 16 kilometres off the southern point of the Fleurieu Peninsula. Reeves Point was the first colonial settlement of South Australia in 1836. It was visited by the French ship Le Geographe under the command of the Baudin Captain accompanied by the naturalist François Peron in 1802. Many capes and bays bear French names, Cape D' Estaing, Cape Cassini, Vivonne Bay, D' Estrees Bay and well others.

The following day I returned  to Penneshaw because a ranger at Cape Willoughby  had informed me that an Internet access was available at the Post Office, from 9 am. Two messages were in my mailbox. The first came from the company of Spirit-of-Tasmania which granted a passage outward journey and return to Tasmania. It had been necessary to exchange five emails to obtain an agreement for my truck registered abroad. I had certified to have all paperwork to travel in Australia! The second emanated from Evelyne who proposed to me to intervene with the company of Spirit-of-Tasmania to obtain a voyage outward journey and return. I discovered at this occasion that as for the Kangaroo Island, it is necessary to buy the outward journey and the return together what requires to plan the trip with precision. Consequently I left with a serene spirit to visit Kangaroo Island. I arrived at Western River Cove around 1 p.m. to establish the bivouac in an enchanter spot, without tourist. The gravel road curved in thalwegs to lead to the Western River. In absence of wild animals cattle fed in a meadow burned by the sun and looked at me passing bovinely.

On March 03rd, it was a short driving morning on gravel road to go to throw an eye at the lighthouse of Cape Borda. It was built in 1858 to guide ships coming from the “howling fortieths” and sailing to Adelaide. It is the only square lighthouse in South Australia. It was automated in 1989. A small walk leads from it to Clifftop Hide vis-a-vis the Investigator Strait.

On advice of Evelyne I was heading to establish my bivouac at Harveys Return whose small beach was used for the sailing ships to supply the population of the lighthouse. In 1859 a double trackway made it possible to hoist the supply whose capstan was powered by horses. There does not remain any vestige, the nature having taken again its rights.

Close to the white sand beach an dramatic rock dug by weathering.

The target of the day of March 04 was to admire geological sights at the Cape Du Couedic with as cherry on the cake some seals, New Zealand fur-seals, and some Koalas. Close to the lighthouse Admirals Arch was dug by the movements of the sea and the bad weather; at the edge of cliff seals lolled under the sun.

A few kilometres away at the Kirkpatrick Point on a granite dome emerged from the sea rocks were carved by weathering.

At the Western Kangaroo Island Caravan Park the Koala Trail makes it possible to see Koalas in their environment, eucalypti of which they are very fond of sheets, to see also the gallery of pictures.

The day after was a eating & drinking day, I had decided to have lunch by Maroon & Cafe. Before I went for a aperitif walk at Kelly Hill on Burgess Hike & May Walk paths where I met unexpected, in particular this beautiful crow imposing presence by no means impressed by my presence. On the move I took a picture of a mailbox well in the Australians humorous spirit.

The crayfish breeding of Marron & Cafe is impressive by the animal size either brown or blue. In Australian English, Aussie, the crayfish are called Marron name of their French colour, English crayfish is also used. I lunched of a dish "Marron a la Two Wheeler” accompanied by a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. Beforehand I had taken the precaution to obtain the authorization to carry the bottle of which finally I had drunk only a quarter. After having rest in front of the landscape I moved towards my bivouac in Vivonne Bay where I was welcomed by a French couple in working holiday.

The day of March 06 was announced rainy, it was it beyond the desirable one. Despite everything I visited Seal Bay before the first heavy shower. The colony of sea-lions, seals, slept on the beach. The French explanatory leaflet Visitor Centre said  that sea-lion's population in Australia is approximately 12000 individuals after the massacres in the 19th century for fur and oil. They feed during three days in open sea then rest on beach during three days, males sleep, females nurse their small, young males battle. Then I headed to Kingscote under the beating rain to do shopping before finding a wet bivouac in American River.

Sunday is the day of Penneshaw Farmer's Markets. Many visitors by waiting for a ferry strolled it from slack to slack tasting with the various products. I bought eucalypt honey. A sheep's stockbreeder made a sheep shearing demonstration until the spinning of wool. Spectators were delighted.

After the Backstairs Passage crossing from Penneshaw to Cape Jervis I spent the night at Rapid Bay.

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