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From 2008/10/25 to 2008/11/02	-- From Stung Treng to Sihanouk Ville

The road tracklog From Stung Treng to Sihanouk Ville from 25/10 to 02/11/2008
The 25/10 was the Day of Dupes; many local people said me that the road to Sen Monorom was in excellent condition because tarred. This was not my surprise after a crossroads in Snuol to drive on a laterite track softened by rain, perfectly muddy and full with potholes. At the end of five kilometres I stopped and by lunching I took a decision to give up. Curiosities of the village in mountain were not worth to endure this track to 10 km/h during six hours. I made half-turn and I moved towards Kompong Cham where after a good beer and a discussion with Mr. Chea Vannat, local French speaking guide, I bivouacked on the edge of Mekong.
The 26/10 was a short driving day I arrived in Phnom Penh in a beating rain. I found the carpark of “Silver Pagoda” for the nième+1 time.
The 27/10 I left Phnom Penh to go southwards to visit old Khmer sites by the road NH2 which with experiment does not have potholes but on the other hand is very embossed. First of all I stopped in Ton Le Baty where I rented a moto-driver to visit the temple of Ta Prom out of laterite built by the king Jayavarman VII (1181-1219). It consists of five rooms; each one has a Linga and a statue of the Buddha, syncretism of the Brahmanism and Buddhism. At some steps the temple of Yeah Peau offers little interest. My guide was a charming gamine.
Ta Prohm Ton Le Baty the 27/10/2008
Bouddha Ta Prom the 27/10/2008
My guide Ta Prom the 27/10/2008
Approximately 21 km further I stopped again to rent another moto-driver to visit Phnom Chisor at the top of a hill accessible by a 412-step staircase by 33°C and 70% of moisture. It is built in blocks of laterite and bricks dating from the 11th century. The complex is surrounded by a wall of 2.5 meters with a gallery with windows opening on courtyard. The main sanctuary has a statue of Shiva and his symbol of energy, a Linga. The hill offers a dramatic view on the surrounding countryside. On the site I met a fluently English speaking couple. I asked them if they were English: “No, we are Scots”.
Phnom Chisor the 27/10/2008
Gallery Phnom Chisor the 27/10/2008
Courtyard Phnom Chisor the 27/10/2008
Shiva Phnom Chisor the 27/10/2008
I reached Takeo in the afternoon to organize the visit of Angkor Borei and Phnom Da the following day with Tourist Office.
The market Takeo the 27/10/2008
The 28/10 I left in excursion with Mr. Sin Soeung, deputy director of Tourist Office of the district of Takeo, who French speaking was my guide. I rented a speedboat which took the channel 15, 21 kilometres length, 30 meters wide and 3 meters deep; it was dug in 1984.
My guide Takeo the 28/10/2008
Canal 15 Takeo the 28/10/2008
Coche d'eau Canal 15 the 28/10/2008
I reached the hill of Phnom Da at the foot of which four artificial caves were dug int the 8th century to receive a Linga in its Yoni and a statue of Shiva. At the top a temple in blocks of laterite dating from the 6th century, water Chenla era, opens in north; the sanctuary contains Yonis at the four corners and in the centre a pedestal where was to be a statue of Shiva.
Main gate Phnom Da the 28/10/2008
Not very far the temple Ashram Moha Russei is out of sandstone; it has the structure of a Hindu temple with a narthex, receiving the statue of the divinity, it is surrounded by a gallery. A group of peasants had come in their annual pilgrimage.
Wat Ashram Moha Russei the 28/10/2008
In Angkor Borei I visited a museum which houses parts of the time of Funan (1st century-5th century) and water Chenla (6th century-8th century). There remains nothing of the old city of Angkor Borei if it is not the visible structure of a enclosing wall by bird’s eye view. The comments by Mr. Sin Soeung were of an exceptional interest.
Museum Angkor Borei the 28/10/2008
The 29/10 was a long driving morning to reach the balneal city of French colonization, Kep-sur-Mer. After destruction of the Khmer Rouges, plundering of the Vietnamese occupation army and sale of materials of recuperation by the Cambodians to survive during the famine of 1979/80, there remain only some ruins of notable French’s houses. I bivouacked along the beach.
Fishing port Kep-sur-Mer the 29/10/2008
"Art Déco" ruin Kep-sur-Mer the 29/10/2008
The 31/10 after a last lunch at “Crab Market” in Kep-sur-Mer, I arrived in Kampot where I established a bivouac at the edge of Prek Kampong Bay. Then I looked for an advisability to visit Bokor Hill the following day. Orchid Guesthouse quoted to me seriously .
Colonial house Kampot the 31/10/2008
Even by deflating tyres my truck did not drive under 2 meters high; fortunately there has been a new bridge a few years 200 meters further.
Old bridge! Kampot the 31/10/2008
The day after at eight O’clock in the morning I embarked on the plateau of a Toyota Hilux to go up in Bokor Hill Station; the station of altitude, 1080 meters high, was built by French from 1917 to 1925. Given up at the time of the independence of Cambodia, it was victim of the civil war by the Khmer Rouges then of the occupation of the Vietnamese army. After a two-hour trip a ghost-town appeared in clouds, it was eerie. The ruins appeared and disappeared with the liking of the winds sweeping the clouds. The remaining buildings, a Church, a Palace Hotel, a Casino and a Post office are style of the 1920’s. In the great room of the Palace Hotel it was easy to imagine the carefree colonial society dancing and having fun.
Catholic Church Bokor Hill the 01/11/2008
Palace Hotel Bokor Hill the 01/11/2008
Le Casino Bokor Hill the 01/11/2008
After lunching we walked up to Popokvil Falls. Then the return to Kampot took place around 6 p.m.
Popokvil Falls Bokor Hill the 01/11/2008
The 02/11 I left Kampot to Sihanouk Ville where I arrived about midday to establish a bivouac on White Sand Beach in edge of sea preparing the publication of a new page of my website.

Sihanouk Ville, le 2008/11/02