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USA

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-- From 2012/12/03 to 2012/12/09
-- From Silver City to Tucson
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The GPS road tacklog
From Silver City to Tucson
from 2012/12/03 au 2012/12/09

On Hwy #80

I left from Silver City after lunching in direction of the border of Mexico by Hwy #80. The highlight of the area is the village of Rodeo which counts a hundred hearts. Indeed the bar, Rodeo Grocery and Cafe, has a mural by Bob Waldmire and unfinished. I spent the night on Community Mall at the northern entry of the village.

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Rodeo

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Mural by Bob Waldmire

Bisbee, AZ

For the first time since several weeks the night temperature was not negative, of course the altitude was only of 1400 meters high. As usual I have the privilege of a magic sunset. I adore the sunsets illuminating the mountain in low-angled light, but the reduction of the weight of the images for the Web cancels the fairyhood of the colors. Road in Arizona is obviously the same as in New Mexico, rectilinear without much of traffic. Landscapes are desert with mountains often with jagged tops. On the way I made two visits which did not fill with enthusiasm. Bisbee is a mining city since the 19th century and at the entrance an immense “open pit” bursts the mountain. Main Street is bordered with coloured houses. It has a prestigious past.

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Sunset at Rodeo Hwy in Arizona
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Bisbee, open pit
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Tombstone

A few kilometers further away the famous lawless city, Tombstone, which was many times represented by Hollywood movies of which the very known Ok, Corral. The trip was rather fast, not what to astonish. The houses are entirely restored and are traps for tourists. I went my way after a stop to the library for a Wi-Fi access. I found a bivouac at the road side after St David. Hardly arrived one strikes at the door and I have the great surprise to see an American met in June 2011 by travelling by a ferry boat at Juneau. What the world is small! We spoke lengthily, his son is always in Alaska.

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Mission San Xavier del Bac, but my truck broke down

The target on December 5th was to visit San Xavier Mission before going to Tucson. Alas the goal was not reached. What I feared since the last servicing of my truck by MAN in Australia, more than two years ago, had arrived. At the crossroads between Hwy #10 and Valencia Rd for San Xavier my truck broke down when traffic light became green around 10:30. At starting while pressing on the clutch pedal it fixed and the clutch pedal became hard. Impossible to pass a gear. The engine turned, the brakes functioned. A few days before a suspect noise had appeared, while pressing on the clutch pedal… Fortunately I was in the outer suburbs of Tucson, Arizona, close to a service station to call a towing truck which towed my vehicle, after having raised the front and having disconnected the back driveshaft, to a Volvo workshop at about 5.5 miles. Of course the service of reception and the shop foreman remained circumspect not knowing it. In the early afternoon I sent an e-mail to Man-Bresse, but the time lag is 8 hours in winter with Paris. On December 6th around 2 a.m., Tucson time, I received a message from MAN-Bresse announcing to me that my problem was dealt with and was submit to MAN-Evry and Munich. In the morning I received some e-mails of which one of MAN-Evry with the English technical documentation of the clutch. At this occasion I learned that the "International" truck maker installed MAN engines.The Volvo workshop started to carry out the diagnosis. Around 1 p.m. the verdict fell: The shop foreman gave me five steel balls by telling me that “the release bearing is broken”. I understood with the technical documentation what it was. At my request he told me that I was not responsible. In the afternoon, but out the schedules of opening of MAN-Bresse, I returned the technical documentation with the spare parts to be dispatched at Volvo in Tucson. Of course I spent the weekend at the Windemere hotel waiting for their reception.

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Tucson

On Friday morning I took my bicycle from the truck to visit the city during the weekend. In the early afternoon I left to discovering it while looking for the post office where I had asked Lewis & Lewis to dispatch in poste restante the original of the Mexican insurance policy. I discovered that the information given by Lonely Planet was erroneous. The term of poste restante is not used in the USA but “General Delivery” which always is at the “Main Post Office” of the city concerned. The mail thus expected me at the main post office of Tucson. The town at the bottom of mountains is built in flat valley, thank you for my old legs. But as I often said at the time of my bicycle peregrinations, roughness, inequality and degradation of the roadway of American cities are very harmful for my back.

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Gazebo in Plaza de Mesilla, La Placita
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Pima County Courthouse

The downtown area is very small with high buildings dominating carparks in silo. The old city dating back to 1775 is reduced to Presidio San Agustin del Tuson, made up with adobe bricks, duly restored.

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Presidio San AgustÍn del Tucson
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Arizona State Museum

At the program on Saturday 9th the visit of two museums in the campus of the university of Arizona in the north of Tucson. Arizona State Museum, ASM, is one of the largest anthropology museums in the south-west of America and in the north of Mexico. It is organized in two topics. Basketry and pottery on the one hand, the latter is one of largest in the world and, on the other hand “The Paths of Life” tells in dioramas the origins, the story and the contemporary life of ten Native Cultures. Paths is the most attaching exhibit I have seen since back in the USA.

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Rock art, pictograph of Hopi migration The Paths of Life Logo
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University of Arizona Museum of Art

The Museum of Art, UAMA, presents in several rooms drawings by Dürer, Picasso and well by others, the exhibit "Broken Desert" of paintings by American artists, paintings of the Samuel H. Kress donation and a temporary exhibition of contemporary German Op-Art ceramics.

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Glenn Canyon Dam by McGinnis Open Pit by McGinnis
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The Birth of Day by Miró Red Canna by O'Keeffe

The Presidio Trail

On Sunday morning I walked “The Presidio Trail” from Cathedral St Augustine where I have the privilege to attend a mass accompanied by a set of mariachi of whose I became acquainted. Then on streets I discovered some aspects of the past, present and future life of Tucson.

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St Augustine Cathedral
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El Mariachi Tapatio at St Augustine Cathedral
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Pima County Courthouse
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Legend of the Old-West

Tucson Museum of Art

After having lunch I plunged in Tucson Museum of Art where it was prohibited to take pictures. Of course I stole there two, Head of Guanyin and Matisse. These people forget that one finds photographs of the exposed paintings on Internet as both by Barbara Rogers. It was still an enriching day and very sunny.

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Barbara Rogers, The Imperative of Beauty
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Head of Guanyin, Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) The Pasiphaé by Matisse-
"... Et se coucher chaque soir dans son malheur..."
"... And to bed every night in his misfortune..."          
by Montherlant
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Eucalyptus by Nicolaï Fechin Eucalyptus Tree by Clark H. Hulings