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China,
The Silk Road |
The
journey to China was organized by a French agency with preset services. It proposed to
visit this country in a 12-people group with a collective visa. It started with
the visit of Peking, then from Ürümqi it took the
Silk Road route as far as Xian to finish in Canton and Hong Kong.
It was made in 1982, from July 10 to August 03.
The Air China flight was a direct flight to Peking.
The report is in six tables. The general comments are given by the
China presentation. |
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Peking |
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Peking |
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Imperial palace |
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Summer palace |
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Great wall |
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Temple du ciel |
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The way of the spirits |
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Approach: The flight to Peking made a stop at Rawalpindi not
to fly over China during the day. The control and the passage through customs
were fast and not overzealous.
Peking: The first impression of Peking was that of a very large
city. The transfer from the airport to the city centre then to the
hotel made it possible to appreciate the green and cultivated
countryside, people walking on the roads or riding bicycles,
overloaded trucks or tractors towing trailers full of agricultural
products, suburbs built of apartment buildings, the city centre with
very different districts according to the time of construction,
Tartar, Chinese or modern, broad avenues, subway, international
hotels. At that time, the visit of the city followed a tour imposed
by the Beijing authorities.
Tian'anmen: The square has the name of entrance gate to the
Imperial Palace, it is symbolic for several reasons. It is the largest
square in the world, it is from the top of the Sky gate from which
Mao Zedong proclaimed the People's Republic on October 01, 1949,
it is the square of the students' revolution whose photographs were
shown around the world by Internet. Three buildings border it, in the
east the Palace of the Museums, in the west the Great Hall of
the Peopleand in the south the Mao Mausoleum whose visit was
imposed and behind the mausoleum, the two Qianmen strong bastions.
Imperial palace: The palace was designed according to the
Buddhist world-vision concepts, the five cardinal points represented
by the four gates of the enclosure and the fifth being in the centre,
the palace of the Preserved Harmony. The whole covers 72 ha
surrounded by an red wall 10m high protected by ditches 50m wide.
The official buildings are arranged on the median axis, the walls
are red colour, the tiles of the roofs are yellow glazed. The
furniture may date from the Qing era. The private buildings are
in the side parts of the city.
It is an extraordinary museum, the parts of the official buildings
gather art pieces saved from the Cultural revolution.
Summer Palace: The palace is located at the foot of the
Thousand-year-old Longevity and in front of the Kunming Lake.
It was built by Empress Ci Xi in 1888. Partly burnt by an Anglo-French army,
and restored by Ci Xi, the palace does not have the historical importance
of the Forbidden City. According to a guidebook it is a "chinoiserie".
The lake is rather romantic and that photos with the seventeen-arch
bridge have made the palace very popular in tourist agencies.
Great Wall: It is the subject of all phantasms, it is seen from
the Moon, a promoter would like to install a cable car for tired tourists.
There started in 300 BC it was built and maintained constantly until 1644,
when the Ming dynasty collapse. It is the symbol of the power of the
Empire of the Middle, it certainly fulfilled its function, protection
against barbarians, at the Xiongnu.
The trip to the carefully restored Huanghua section was the occasion
to see the Chinese landscape meticulously cultivated and the congestion of
the countryside roads.>
Temple of Heaven: Built in 1420, then restored after a fire in
1889, it is undoubtedly the most beautiful building: "It is the
organization-concept spatial transposition of the cosmogonist and political
world of imperial legitimacy".
Ming Tombs: The Ming mausoleum gathers thirteen tombs
preceded by the Way of the Spirits, a true "Elysian Alley".
The tower of the Stele and the tomb of Yongle
emperor were the buildings, I visited. |
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At that time, the official tour included a
reception by a commune with a discussion with the person in
charge, questions collected and asked by the group leader via the
interpreter. A model school was the subject of all our
attention with a show given by the children. As in any
city, the spectacle was in the street, the omnipresent Chinese crowd,
a lot of spitting, visitors of sites lying on the
lawns among litter, Chinese playing chess on
pavements, women cleaning streets, men attentive to their
male offspring and many more fascinating scenes.
The seen from the top of the Mountain of Coal,
Meishan, is an unforgettable spectacle.
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Ürümqi |
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Approach: We flew from Peking to Ürümqi. On the road from
the airport to the city the spectacle of the life in the fields
showed us the Uygur daily life. The aridity contrasted with the
fertile plain of the Peking area. At that time, Ürümqi city was
the most western stop of the Silk Road open to foreigners by the
Chinese authorities. The continuation of the journey was made by minibus
as far as Liuyuan, the Dunhuang railway station.
Ürümqi: The city is the capital of the Uygur Autonomous Area of
Xingjian. It is apart from the antique Silk Road. It is located 900m
high in the north of the Celestial Mounts, Tian Shan. It is
populated by Uygur, Han, Kazakh, Kirghiz, Hui speaking a vernacular
language close to Uzbek. Islamization dates from the years 744-745.
It has more than one hundred mosques among which the Shaanxi Mosque.
The Regional Museum of Xingjian presents two permanent
exhibitions: archaeological objects of the Silk Road and cultural
objects of the minorities.
In the south of the city, the visit of the White Poplar Gorge,
Baiyang Gou, made it possible to see the nomad campsite and to
have tea in yurts. The cascade of the gorge was a marvellous,
noisy and refreshing spectacle.
Turpan: The different names of the city recall that the summer
is torrid there. At the time ofour passage we had a night without
sleep and water due to an insupportable heat. It is located like
Ürümqi at the foot of Tian Shan. The city is attested as early as
the Han, 206 BC. It is a large busy village thanks to the bazaar.
It is pleasant to visit at nightfall and to walk to the oasis
to find the freshness of the trellised vineyard.
The Minaret of Emin Khoja, one of the jewels of the Silk Road,
was built in 1777, it is also called Su Gong Minaret, the name
of the son who completed the construction. The circular tower is a dry brick cone.
The Tombs of Astana, dating from the Tang era, are the cemetery of
inhabitants of the Goachang town. A narrow and abrupt passage
goes down in each of them.
The Goachang ancient village: the ruins are impressive in a
scenery of dunes. It was flourishing as early as the 2nd century BC,
and disappeared in the 14th century AD.
The Thousand Buddha Caves, Qianfodong, are dug in cliffs of
the burnt ochre mountain. The statues and paintings are dusty.
Dunhuang: The site is attested as early as the first century BC. The
Mogao first caves were dug from 353 until the end of the 14th
century. It is the vastest complex of Buddhist paintings and statues
in the world. The cells were dug in cliff of the Mingsha
mounts. Stein, the sinologist was the inventor of the site and
brought back several thousands of documents. The collection of
Paul Pelliot is exposed in the Guimet museum in Paris.
The crescent lake is accessible after the climbing of the Mingsha
dune 250m high. |
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Yurts |
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Turpan |
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Minaret Su Gong |
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Dunhuang |
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The first part of the trip of the "Silk Road" finished in Dunhuang.
The desert landscapes, the ruins of the old cities, the nomads of the
steppes, the bazaars of the villages made it possible to imagine what
the life on the Silk Road route could be. It was the discovery of an
area which was useful, too, as an introduction to other voyages in
Central Asia.
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Lanzhou |
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Panda |
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Wuquanshan |
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Petrochemical complex |
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Approach:
The trip from Liuyuan, Turpan railway station, to Lanzhou was made
in "soft sleeper" in opposition to "hard sleeper"
according to the Chinese administration terminology. Already at that time,
overbooking existed. High rank soldiers were requested to yield their
soft sleepers to the honourable Western visitors.
Lanzhou: Capital of Gansu, it straddles the
two banks of the Hoang-ho river in a narrow valley of brown and
desert mountains 1,510 m high. Its position is strategic on the ancient
Silk Road for the loading of animal skin on boats. It was a craft industrial
city, it has become an industrial city.
Wuquanshan: The park of the five-source mountains
was set up on the slope of the Wuquanshan mountain. In this charming landscape
two temples were built, one Buddhist Lamaist, the other Taoist. In the park,
a zoo has pandas.
Provincial museum:
The permanent exhibition in the first room presents collections of
potteries dating from the Neolithic era. The bronze collection,
a cortège of horse riders and floats is particularly remarkable, these
museum pieces come from the tomb of a "Han" general.
Petrochemical Complex:
The Lanzhou city has a very important industrial centre. The chemical
complex was visited and we were received by the plant manager who
answered our questions collected by the group leader. |
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Lanzhou has a very important agricultural commune, with a hospital
and a pharmacy we were received by its director whom the group
tried to ask relevant questions.
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Xian |
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Approach: The
trip from Lanzhou to Xian was made by a domestic flight.
Xian: Under the name of Chang'an,
it was the capital for 1100 years of the Empire of the Middle.
The construction of the city walls started in 194 BC and the emperor
left the city in 880 AD. Then Chang'an changed its name into Xian,
"Peace of the West".
The present walls date from the 14th century and have four gates
positioned at the cardinal points according to Chinese cosmogony.
The Tower of the Drum, built in 1380, use to beat everyday at
twilight.
The Tower of the Bell, built in 1384, sounded everyday
at dawn. The building is on two floors with a wooden triple roof assembled
by tenons and mortises.
The Great Mosque: Founded into 742,
it is a place of gathering Hui, Chinese Moslems, recognizable
with their barbs and white bonnets. Its architecture is Chinese
with bricks walls and turquoise glazed tiled roofs.
The provincial museum of Shaanxi:
The museum is in a former Confucian temple. The collections are
remarkable for the Han period and more particularly the Tang period
by the richness of the sculptures and the delicate figurines.
The forest of the steles: This unit is located on the median
axis of the Confucius temple. It is the most important lapidary
collection of China. The 1,300 tablets date back to 1087, date of the
foundation of the Kaicheng Shijing conservation , engraving
on stone of the Kaicheng classic whose knowledge was essential to
the Scholars. One of the most famous relates the installation
of the Nestorian community, engraved in Chinese and Syrian in 781.
Pagodas of wild geese: The pagodas of large
and small wild geese were built in 650, each one is supplemented
by a temple, Da Ci'en and Da Jainfu.
The buried army: The artificial Tumulus of
the Emperor Qin Shihuangdi Mausoleum (221-210BC) formed part
of a funerary unit including the "buried Army" several
thousands of clay soldiers approximately 1,80 m tall whose features
are all different, equipped with armour, (the weapons were plundered)
and accompanied by horses 1,50m tall.
The unit is extraordinary for its beauty and megalomaniac uselessness.
Zhaoling: It is a necropolis dating from the
Tang period. The tomb of the second emperor Tang Taishon presents
an aspect of the funerary art Tang. |
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Xian |
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Stele |
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Pagoda of wild geese |
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The burial army |
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The Silk Road route, during the Han dynasty, started
from the capital Chang'an. The main road towards the west
passed by the north of the Takla-Makan
desert. It is this part which was visited. Xian,
called Sera-Metropolis, is a magic city with busy streets, cloisonné
workshop and historic buildings.
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Canton |
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Canton |
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Memorial Sun Yat-sen |
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Silkworm breeding |
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Approach:
The way from Xian to Canton was made by a domestic flight.
Canton: The "Guangzhou city",
located at the far end of the estuary of the Pearl river,
is the capital of the Guangdong province. As early as 214 BC
emperor Qin Shihuangdi established a Commandery. The city
owes its fame to the opium war which was introduced in China by
the British in 1713, then to the blossoming of the revolution in
the twenties and finally to Mao Zedong who gave courses there in 1924.
Memorial Sun Yat-Sen: It is an octagonal
building with blue glazed tiles built in 1929 in a splendid park
with varied tropical trees.
It is used by the provincial assemblies of the Guangdong autonomous
Area.
Pagoda of the Six Banyans: Liurongsi
or the Six Banyans temple is known for the Huata pagoda.
This octagonal pagoda built in 537 has 9 external and 17 interior floors.
The sight from the top offers an exceptional panorama.
Foshan: The Foshan hill was an important Buddhist
centre at the Tang period.
The Temple of the Ancestors, Zucimiao a former Taoist temple
is now a museum, located in a splendid park with rare trees species.
It shows an important collection of funerary furniture of the Han period
and head dolls of the Ming period.
The Renshousi Temple is the Foshan handicraft centre.
Silkworm breeding: The Canton area is
prosperous by sericulture and the industry of silk spinning.
At that time, the tour had scheduled the visit of a silk spinning
factory and a reception by the plant manager with questions
of the group. |
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Canton is a shopping and industrial large centre at the crossroads of
big transportation routes. Its maritime future is attached to Hong
Kong, more to the south on the Pearl river and playing the part of outer
harbour.
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Hong Kong |
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Approach: The trip from Canton to Hong Kong was made on a train and
on foot to cross the "No man's land" in a corridor bordered
by barbed iron wire.
Hong Kong: The
Hong Kong city, Xianggang, gathers the Hong Kong island, the Kowloon
peninsula, the New Territories and approximately 235 small islands. At that time,
the whole was under British administration, now I write, all these territories
returned to China, on June 30, 1997 at midnight. Since, the territories have
been managed by China according to the rule: "One government, two systems.".
Kowloon: The peninsula is the first contact of
the traveller with Hong Kong, the tarmac of the airport is partly built
on the sea and on the landing, the plane skins the large high buildings.
It is the place of lacquers, ivories, electronic purchases and pleasures, night
attractions are legion. At night, the streets life is fantastic with the
illumination of the signs in Chinese ideograms. In summer, the monsoon
torrential rains are quite as impressive by their promptitude as by the
rain downpour.
Island of Hong Kong:
The visit started with the rise of Victoria Peak, from where the
sight on the bay was exceptional. The picturesque walk in the streets and
lanes was a moment of amazement at the hustle and bustle, colours and
smells.
Aberdeen: On the east coast of the island lies
the oldest floating village. The trip in sampan offered an unforgettable
spectacle. A visit to the temple of Tin Hau, the patron of sailors,
was essential. The restaurants offers a huge variety of exotic
dishes. |
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Kowloon |
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Hongkong |
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Hongkong |
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The first journey to China was one of my greatest tourist discoveries of a world
with multiple facets.
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The return to France was made by a Cathay Pacific flight via Anchorage to Paris.
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Neuilly, le 2003/09/14 |
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