Iran


Iran belongs to the US State Department's list of the seven countries of the "axis of evil". Indeed, Iran is not free from criticisms, far from it.
But Iranians are famous for their kindness and their hospitality. After the first fears related to an intransigent Islamism, one feels safe in Iran.

A passage area between the lands of the fertile Greco-Roman crescent and in the west and the steppes of Central Asia in the east, Iran underwent civilizing invasions from the west and the south and the devastating conquests from the east. The western part of the Silk Road passed under the south of the Caspian Sea.

The history of Iran is not the topic of these pages. It is outlined briefly to try to understand the characteristics of this captivating country.

The geography of Iran is presented in broad maps to locate the journey.

History

Geography

The protohistory of Persia is obscure. Sites have been excavated: Tappeh Sialk, Tappeh Giyan and Tappeh Hissar.
In the 6th millennium BC under the Sumer influence, Cities-States appeared in Shushian which fell under rule of Sargon about 2300 BC. Elam became independent towards 2000 BC and took Shush as capital.
In the 2d and 1st millennium BC, Indo-European tribes arrived either through Caucasus or Transoxian. One of them, the Persians, settled in Fars, another, the Medes in the plain of Hamadan with Ekbatana as its capital. The latter ruled the Middle East after the seizure of Nineveh from the Assyrians in 612 BC.
The history of Iran is presented in large periods.
Ancient Iran (560BC-642AD), king Achaemenes set up his kingdom in Fars which became Parsa and founded the Achaemenian dynasty. His territory was divided between his sons then reunified by Cyrus II in 558 BC. In 539, the conquest of Babylon and the return from exile of all the people held in slavery by the Assyrians gave him the title of Cyrus the Great. After many vicissitudes, Darius Ist (522-486 BC) consolidated the empire and organized it in 23 satrapies.  After his death, the Persian empire broke up and ended in 338 by the conquest of Alexander the Great and the death of Darius.
After the death of Alexander, the territory fell under rule of the one of his lieutenants Seleucos who founded the Seleucid dynasty. It maintained its rule until the Magnesia battle in 190 BC won by the Romans. The Parthians took advantage of it to seize power. The Parthian dynasty reigned until 224 AD. During the Seleucid and Parthian period, a family from Fars maintained the Achaemenian tradition, seized power and founded the Sassanian dynasty (224-641) which ruled until the arrival of the Arabs.
Arab Iran (642-1050), the Sassanian capital Ctesiphon fell under the attack of the Arab armies in 637 and the Nahavand battle in 642 put an end to the Persian dynasty. The Arabs brought their writings and religion to Persia. But the Persian language and culture still exist. From the 9th century the decline of the power of the Caliphate allowed the Iranian satrapy governors to consolidate their powers.
Turkish Iran (1050-1722), a clan of the Oghuz Turk tribe seized power and founded the dynasty of Seljuk (1050-1258). Then the Mongols arrived, devastated the land and reigned until 1502. The power fell to the Safavid dynasty.
Ghajar Iran (1794-1925), Nader Shah, a gang leader seized power and founded the Ghajar dynasty in Khorassan. The Prime Minister of the last Ghajar Shah proclaimed Shah himself in 1925!
Pahlavi Iran (1925-1979), the kingdom took the name of Iran in 1934. The repressive power, economic difficulties put an end to this dynasty of common birth in spite of the support of the USA.
Islamist Iran (1979-?), the Islamic regime was set up when Ayatollah Khomeini came back on February 1, 1979. The Iran-Iraq War, recurring economic difficulties, an endemic repression, students demonstrations raise doubt about the longevity of this obscurantist religious regime.

Iran has a complex shape. The surface is equal +300% that of France and one fifth that of the USA. It has borders with Armenia, Azerbaijan, the Caspian Sea, Turkmenistan in the north, with Afghanistan and Pakistan in the east, with the Gulf of Oman and the Persian Gulf in the south and with Iraq and Turkey in the west.

Iran is a plateau +1,000m high bordered by mountain ranges and beyond, of liquid masses with deserts. It can be presented in four large areas:

In the centre, the plateau consists of Dasht-e-Kavir, a salt desert in the north and of Dasht-e-Lut, a sand desert in the south, it is 22% of the territory. The dwellings are located around the oases.
In the north, the Alborz mountain range is a fold between the central plateau and the fertile plain south of the Caspian Sea. It has several summits +4,000 m high and the extinct Damavand volcano 5,670 m high.
In the west, the Zagros range is directed North-South from the Van Lake to the Persian Gulf. It has summit +4,000 m high. The Khuzestan plain lies in the south-west, piece of the Mesopotamia plain  bordering Arvand-rud (Shatt-el-Arab).
In the south-east, the Makran range is in edge of the Gulf of Oman. Finally at the Pakistan border, a North-South mountain range has as top Taftan 4,042 m high.

This geographical configuration has consequences on the climatic level:
The summer is very hot everywhere and particularly at the edge of the Persian Gulf. The winter is cold on the plateau and mild near the liquid masses.
The mountainous strips of the plateau stop rainfalls and increase the aridity of the plateau. None of the rivers directed towards the plateau ends into the sea. They end up in marshy, sandy grounds.

The water supply was one of the Medes and Persian concerns.
Due to the plateau dryness, rare rainfalls, rare rivers, agriculture was not possible without a clever irrigation system.
As early as ancient Iran, underground channels were built:
A qanat collects water in the piedmonts of the plateau, in the ground water and distributes it in cultivated plains.
This underground net of water conveyance is visible from the access shafts allowing the maintenance of the channels. Some oases are completely dependent on this irrigation system reaching several hundred kilometres.
Likewise the bridge-dams appeared as early as the Sassanian dynasty in the 3d century AD. The Khadju bridge in Esfahan shows evidence of the high technique of these farmers.


The vegetal carpet is also the consequence of the geographical localisation and the climatic system. The forest is present in the mountainous ranges at the edge of the Iranian plateau: A wet forest on Caspian Alborz slopes, a dry forest in the other mountainous ranges. Everywhere else, the steppe is the common landscape of the Iranian plateau. It can be planted with trees in the areas of rainfalls higher than 150 mm a year. Consequently the agricultural landscape is concentrated in the valleys, the coastal areas with strong rainfall. The irrigated plateau has sugar beet and potato culture. The steppe areas has date palms, jujube tree and tamarisk plantations.

Economic facts

Civilisation

Iran's economy is rather developed. However, since the return of the Ayatollah rule, the economy has degraded by the deceleration of foreign investments.

Agriculture is 24.8% of the GDP with 26% of the working population. Iran is one of the first cereal importers in the world, with one third of its food needs. Stock breeding is practised by wandering and seminomad tribes. Fishing is at the origin of the ones of the best known exports of Iran: caviar.

Mineral resources are appreciable. Oil 13.7%, the third world producer and second world producer of gas.

Industry is in fad state, 22.3% of the GDP with 38% of the working population, due to Iran's policy. Handicraft is a traditional activity: Iranian carpets are among the most beautiful in the Middle East.

Trade is represented by oil exports. Tourism is developing, but it depends on the international climate and tensions.

The Iranian currency is the Iranian Rial.

The official name is Islamic Republic of Iran whose capital is Tehran. The word Iran is the corruption of Aryana.
The population is +68 million inhabitants. The official language of Iran is Persian (Farsi). The population is 65% Persian, the rest is Azeri and minorities.

Iran is an Islamic republic with a single party, Koran.

Iranians are 89% Moslem Shiites, 10% Moslem Sunnites, and Zoroastrians, Christians, Jews. Islam has the same origin as Judaism and Christianity. The faithful of these three religions belong to "the people of the Book" to which Zoroastrianism was added.

It is common to say that hospitality is the corner stone of Arab culture. This tradition is the consequence of the hardness of the life in the desert and the habits of the tribes. Tourists, in general and in particular in Iran, must adapt to the local clothing requirements especially for women themselves.

The GNP is US$5,000 per capita.


As this short historic overview tried to show, modern Iran is a various ancestral culture synthesis rooted in Indo-European tribes. For this reason it shares an Aryan culture background with India: Similarities have been shown between Avesta of Zoroastrianism and Veda of Hinduism. Pre and post Islamic Persia gave many scientists and doctors who coming from the Iranian plateau or from Transoxian borders. Last but not least, literature and more particularly Persian poetry has left unforgettable pages to the posterity .

Information of the traveller

Sights

All tourists need visas, available at the consulates. They can be prolonged rather easily.

On the health plan it is recommended to consult specialized websites, in France the website of the Foreign Office. No particular precaution is required, it is necessary to be up to date with their usual vaccinations.

The budget of the traveller depends on his choices, Iran offers opportunities for small budgets.

The geographical situation of Iran, the climatic variety offer travellers multiple possibilities of activities in the archaeological sites as well as in the Alborz mountains.

They offer all opportunities to sportsmen. Sports activities are possible in all the areas of Iran, excursions, skiing, climbing.

In spring 1993, I went to Iran on a package tour.

Neuilly, le 2003/12/07