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Nepal,
Kathmandu-Lhassa |
This journey followed
the travels in Tibet in August 1990 and in Bhutan in February 1991 during
which I discovered the Tibetan civilization and which encouraged me to
visit Nepal, second last kingdom in the Himalayas. I arranged a nine-day stay in
the Kathmandu valley from France and in Kathmandu I bought an eight-day trip to Lhassa.
This journey was made in
1991, from May 01 to May 19. The Air India flight left with a one-day
delay from Paris due to a technical stop in Frankfurt. On arrival
in Delhi, the correspondence was not ensured any more to Kathmandu, moreover I left the transit
area without a visa. After several hours of
negotiation, I embarked on a plane to KTM.
General comments are
given by the presentation of the Nepal Kingdom,
Nepal.
This historical presentation also covers in the Kathmandu valley. In 1482 the kingdom
of the Malla dynasty was divided between three Yaksha Malla's sons whose capitals
were Kathmandu, Patan, Bhaktapur. In 1763 the kingdom was reunified and
Kathmandu
was its only capital again.
It is usually admitted
that a city is visited on foot, I did not derogate this rule more
especially in May because the valley was marvellous, indeed a little hot. The
monuments will not be described in detail, many books
are well informed and it is advised to get them to visit sites.
The report is in three
tables accompanied by three topics concerning the places visited in
the Kathmandu valley.
The report of the road to Lhassa has the same organisation. The general
comments are given by the presentation of
Tibet. |
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Kathmandu |
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Kathmandu |
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Swayambhu |
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Pashuptinath |
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Bodnath |
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Newari architecture. The monuments of the valley date, for
the oldest, back to the 17th century. Nepalese architecture varied little in
time, except for decorations.
Newari architecture is represented by a brick temple with a roof with
superimposed and retracted levels built on a base with a more or less big number
of stairs. The number of levels of the roof, generally of two can be up to five.
Kathmandu.
The city is structured around its Dubar
Square. I walked around more than two days to discover not only the
past vestiges but also the daily life in the many lanes, a true
treasure hunting. The architecture is remarkable by its composition, wood
and brick association and its sculptures.
Swayambhu. The stupa is said to date back to before the Christian era,
it dominates the valley. Its name means, the who was born from
himself. I visited it at the end of the afternoon to have the
sunset by taking the staircase populated by monkeys. The circumambulation
clockwise made it possible to discover chaitya where the monkeys played.
Pashupatinath.
The Hindu temple, built in 1694 on the
bank of Bagmati, is one of the most sacred in the valley. From the
terraces on the opposite riverside it is possible to attend the morning
cremations. The temple is prohibited to non-hinduist. In a grove, the
temple of Gujeswari with a skihara is dedicated to Goraknath.
Bodnath. I went from Pashupatinath to Bodnath on foot by crossing
the Bagmati river. The stupa is the most venerated in the valley, it
is enclosed in a set of houses inhabited by Tibetans forming a
colourful village. The chaku, the pinnacle base, is painted with Buddha's eyes,
with a fascinating glance, and between the eyes the figure 1 in devanagari
writing symbolizing Buddha's unicity. |
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The town of Bhaktapur is reached by trolleybus leaving close
to the municipal stadium in the south of the city and following the
Chinese road to the border. I went to Patan by crossing the
Patan Bridge of Bagmati close to the trolleybus stop.
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Bhaktapur, Patan |
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Hindu temple.
Its origin is Indian, it appeared in Nepal in the 17th century. It
was built with bricks and stones. Its geometrical shape is square or
rectangular. On a base with a more or less big number
of stairs, the
arcades with columns on several levels complete with an elevation in
curved bell-tower form, shikhara. Mahabaudha in Patan is a
famous example.
Patan. The
second capital in the valley is also a museum city, but it is
somewhat difficult to find temples, pagodas, sanctuaries, basins
and other works of art. Dubar Square is located at the heart of the
city at the intersection of two streets forming Mangal Bazar. From
Dubar Square two very beautiful walks made it possible to find other
sights.
Changu Narayan.
This site was visited by taking a taxi from Bhaktapur.
It is the oldest Hindu religious site in the valley. The
architecture of the temple resembles that of the other sites in the valley.
But the interest lies in the many statues in the vast square.
Out of the way of package tours, it was a peaceful haven.
Bhaktapur. The
third capital in the valley is a museum city which has preserved
its ancestral character by its handicraft activity. Dubar Square is
not downtown, located at Taumadhi Tol. The access to most royal palace
squares was prohibited. The visit to the city
was made walking along small lanes with shops where tourists are
welcome.
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Patan |
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Changu Narayan |
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Bhaktapur |
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The other sites were visited by taxi from either Kathmandu or Patan.
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Budhanilkantha, Gokarna Mahadev, Kirtipur
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Budhanilkantha |
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Gokarna Mahadev |
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Dakshinkali |
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Buddhic temple.
Two monuments characterize the Buddhist religion. The Stupa
contains a relic of Buddha and is dedicated to him, built in half hemispherical
shape with a pinnacle of thirteen levels. The square base of the pinnacle,
chaku, is decorated with a pair of eyes, Buddha's glance.
Vihara is a monastery built on two stages set up around a interior square.
The sanctuary is opposite the entrance on the other side of the square.
Budhanilkantha. This pilgrimage place dedicated to Vishnu consists
of a square basin with, in its center, a statue of the God reclining on
a bed of naga. It is honoured everyday by people who put on its face the red
powder of sindur and flower petals.
Gokarna Mahadev.
The Hindu religious centre was founded in the 14th century on the eastern
bank of Bagmati. Of newari style, the temple with three stages is
dedicated to Shiva. A long time ago the site was Buddhist, each year an
important newari festival takes place.
Kirtipur. Unlike the other cities
in the valley, it is built on two hills and vehicles are prohibited.
The interest of the visit consists of a city remained typically newar
in particular the houses with their roofs reinforced by oblique struts.
Dakshinkali. The
sanctuary is dedicated to Goddess Kali who requires as offering the blood
of sacrifices to remove harmful influences and to
deliver human existence from the five fundamental defects, to each
one corresponds a determined male animal. |
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The journey to Lhassa was made by minibus for the outward journey and on a
plane for the return to Kathmandu. The group of twelve people was
international, Europeans, Americans, Canadians and Australians.
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Zhangmu, Xegar |
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The road:
The trip from Kathmandu to Lhassa followed the road built from 1955 and
finished by the Friendship bridge about 1966. After the
Tibet invasion by the Chinese in 1950, the Tibetans declared that
there remained approximately 13 temples including three on the road
Kathmandu-Lhassa. The road, a dirt track suitable for motor vehicles,
crosses a majestic landscape with splendid sights on Himalaya
summits. In the direction from Nepal to Tibet, the contrast is vivid
between the green, cultivated Kathmandu valley and the dreary, arid
Tibet plateau.
In 1991 it was impossible to obtain an individual visa to China,
it was thus necessary to buy a package tour. The way to Lhassa took
five days in amazing landscapes +4,000 m high in a dry and windy cold.
The border crossing was one moment of bravery. From the Friendship Bridge,
it was necessary for us to climb a slope of fallen rocks for approximately 1 hour 30
by carrying our luggage, the road was cut by landslides. The customs
formalities were dispatched promptly, but at the hotel the passports
were given and we paid one dollar.
Zhangmu. The
vision was dreadful, a village clung on a vertiginous gorge, a muddy
road curving among houses clinging to the slope in the fog.
Xegar Dzong.
The road, 250 km, was made in 9 hours with stops, in Tingri,
for lunch. It was a dirty road but O.K. The pass of Lalung-La,
5,050 m high, was slow to go up. The village, the
white crystal castle, is dominated by the fortress ruins
and the monastery of the Sakyapa school containing a statue of
Padmasambhava. |
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No man's land |
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Zhangmu |
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La route |
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Road, 290 km, to Xigaste was made in 9 hours 30 with the
crossing over Lhakapa-La 5,220 m. After the pass, the
plots of cultivable fields were in period of ploughing preliminary to sowing.
Time was clear and sunny.
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Xigaste, Gyangste |
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Sakya |
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Tashilhumpo |
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Gyangste |
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Sakya. Before
arriving at Xigaste, the large temple, Lhakahng chenmo,
contains true artistic and historical treasures. It is said to date
back to the 13th century and covers an area of 15,000 m2 surrounded
by a wall with eight crenelled towers. Some manuscripts may date from
the Song era, from 960 to 1279 and Yuan era, from 1280 to 1368.
Tashilhumpo. In
Xigaste, this large monastery was built in 1447 by 1st Dalaï
Lama. It was the residence of Panchen Lama, Amitabha reincarnation,
one of the five Dhyani-Buddha. The monastery is very vast and very
complex to visit, 17 buildings. Moreover it was prohibited to
take photos inside the rooms.
Shalu. A few
kilometres away from Xigaste, founded in 1040, it was extended by the
great Butön, a scholar in 1333. It is the only example of
Sino-Tibetan style with recognizable newar influences with multiple
plant decorations, with geometrical compositions.
The road, 90 km to Gyangste
was made in 2 hours crossing over Lhakapa-La 5,220 m high.
Gyangste. A city
at the intersection of the roads going either to India, or
to Nepal and Bhutan, has a fort built in 1365 and a monastery
in 1418. From Cultural Revolution remain the extraordinary stupa,
Kumbum and the large temple, Palkhorchöde. |
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The road, 250 km, to Lhassa was made in 8 hours with crossing over two
passes Karo-La 5,010 m high, and Kamba-La, 4,794 m high.
Lhasa is 3,630 m high on the bank of the Kyi-chu river in the most fertile valley of
Tibet. |
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Lhassa |
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Potala.
The building is majestic and imposing by its dimensions, it has approximately thousand
rooms. It covers the hill top and dominates all the city. The walls slightly tilted towards the
interior, the windows contracting towards the top accentuate the
perspective effect of this building. The whiteness of the lower part,
the ochre-red of the central part, the gilding of the roofs in pagoda
give it a unique majesty in Asia. It was built from 1645 to 1648 for the white palace and from 1690 to 1694
for the red palace.
The visit was long and required a good acclimatization regarding to altitude.
Jokhang. The
temple, the blessed residence, was surrounded by a non-paved street,
barkhor, which is the circumambulation way by prostration at each step of the faithful.
The construction began in 642 under the reign of Songtsen Gampo.
After crossing the large enamelled red gate and going through a narrow
corridor, the square and the large temple at the opposite of
the entrance was offered to the visitor, Tsuglagkhang which
has two stages and a terrace.
The visit requires a descriptive book of the vaults, paintings and statues.
Drepung. The large
Gelugpa monastery surrounded by mountains on its three sides
was the residence of Dalai Lama before the Potala construction. It is a city which lodged
over 9,000 monks. The site is composed of eight main buildings.
Sera.
The Gelugpa monastery located a few kilometres away from Lhassa was often a
rival of the Drepung monastery. Five buildings on site are worth a visit
as well as the square of philosophical debates where students debate with
ritual gestures, hand slappings and whirlings. |
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Potala |
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Jokhang |
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Drepung |
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Sera |
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The journey proceeded in two parts, the discovery of the Kathmandu valley and the road
to Lhassa. No comparison was possible between them, except religious enthusiasm.
Although Nepal accommodated Tibetan refugees and Buddhism is also
developed, it is on the meridional slope of the Himalayas under the
cultural, economic and climatic influences of the Indian subcontinent.
On the other hand Tibet arid plateau surrounded by high mountains made the
syncretism between its ancestral religion, Bonpo, and Buddhism
from India to give Lamaism form a from of Tantric Buddhism.
Currently under the Chinese domination, Tibet and more particularly Lhassa
are the object of a true colonization.
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The return to France was made by Air India flight after a transit in New Delhi and a
technical stop in Bombay. The arrival in Paris was
at the end of the afternoon. The return was less eventful than the
outward journey.
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Neuilly, le 2003/07/24 |
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