Morocco

Anti Atlas

Asphalted road

According to inhabitants of Icht and Foum el-Hassane there had not been such rains and risings since 1985 even 1965. After to be spoke with Borj Biramane's owner  which had telephoned friends at Tafraoute according to which the city was not accessible like Izerbi and Igherm, I decided to give up the Gandini tracks, to remain on the tar and to return to Foum Zguid to go to Ouarzazate. At the crossroads of the road towards Foum el-Hassane the royal gendarmerie confirmed it to me and indicated to me that the road of Ouarzazate via Foum Zguid was free. Little before Tissint a road on the left towards Tiliouine; a gendarme was there whom I asked whether the road were opened, his answer was affirmative. This cross-piece avoided me going to Foum Zguid. The road was narrow and curved in the mountains up to approximately 1900 meters of altitude. It rained and I had the nose in the clouds. Some portions of road were very damaged by the recent risings. I arrived at Taliouine around 16:50 under a beating rain and a lead sky. I found a bivouac at the exit of the city on a carpark.

En route

To Tiliouine

Road R108 to Agdz

On Tuesday, December 2 before leaving Taliouine in the rain I visited the Cooperative Sooktana founded in 1979 gathering approximately 160 producer-collecting saffron. Alas the pouring rain had made many damage in the museum. I left around 11:00 without regret this city without charm. On the way towards Tazenakht I cross the pass of Tizi-n-Tarhatine at 1886 m of altitude. The weather changed immediately; the sun was shining without cloud and the temperature rose to 16°C. On the road to Foum Zguid I took the R108 road to Adgz curving in the mountains with the resplendent colors in the sun. Then I passed close to a copper mine in exploitation, nothing to see with the American mines that I have the occasion to visit. I decided to bivouac before Agdz in a lunar landscape.

Landscape	Copper mines

Vers Tiliouine

Agdz, Kasbah Caid Ali

The detour by Agdz was justified by the visit of the Caid's Kasbah. The visit was guided by the wife of the grandson of the last caid of the area who had immense territories that it preserved after the annexation of his kingly privileges by the kingdom of Morocco. As for the Maharajahs of India his subsistence is ensured by the incomes of the agricultural lands as well as inn and camp-site. The maintenance of the Kasbah is very expensive in view of its seniority and its realization in adobe being degraded under the effect of the rigorous climatic conditions, rains and thermal amplitudes. It is made up of two parts, one +250 years and the other +150 years. According to the successional devolution the old part belongs to cousins and the most recent part to the small son of the Caid. The two parts are separated by the caravan way. One of the photographs shows that the not-maintained village is reduced little by little to a lot of ground like that of Icht. The comments of my hostess enriching and were very followed at the time of the tea by a discussion to sticks broken without interdict. It is a highly advisable visit. I continued my day by foods purchases at Ouarzazate then I continued up to Anzel starting point of the Gandini track for Jebel Siroua. But my enthusiasm was stopped by information received from the inhabitants according to whom the road was impracticable in 20 km. Tomorrow will be another day.

Caid Ali's Kasbah dating back +150 years-old in the palm-tree Draa valley

	Ancient part dating back +250 years, on right the village being a lot of ground

Jebel Siroua, Gandini's track ?

Anzel bivouac towards Askaoun

On Thursday early morning the outside temperature was of 1,5°C and interior of 3,5°C. My truck was covered with white frost. I loafed about in the heat ( ! ) waiting until the sun heats the atmosphere. The tarred road followed the Gandini track up to the km 37.9. I decided to follow it giving up Gandini. As my progression I got informed about its continuity. Alas the information given to Anzel proved to be exact, because the road finished after work of fill of a foundation raft. I persisted during a few kilometers without conviction then I returned to the last foundation raft whose blue-collar workers again stopped their tasks to remake me the passage. Thank you, the obligingness of the Moroccans is not a vain mot. I lunched at the edge of the road and I bivouacked on the spot, at 1988 meters of altitude, Bof tomorrow morning it will not make hot.

My white frost truck	Panorama

Village	The road under work

Road under work for me!

Jebel Siroua, Gandini's P track, giving up

"Veni, vidi, non vici"

On Friday morning the December 5th on the road back to Ouarzazate while passing again by the waypoint km 37.9 of the Gandini's P track I decided to try to traverse it. It was dry but gradually while going up it became softer. Moreover I must cross two gullies by posing rocks to fill the difference in level. Each time in the course of work I was join by a shepherd coming from nowhere to lend strong hand to me. Finally at 618 meters of the km 46.6 and at 2239 meters of altitude I gave up continuing. Indeed going in recognition by foot I met other gullies and especially the track became muddy and snow-covered. This track reaches by twice an altitude of +2500 meters. Wisdom recommended to me to give up and to return on the tar. Around midday I establish my bivouac close the km 37.9 to lunch and take stock of my morning.

Gully & rocks

Crossing the gully

Gully	2240m, snow !

Giving up at 618 m from waypoint km 46.6

Back to the gully

Ouarzazate

On Saturday morning the outside temperature was of 0.0°C. While arriving at Ouarzazate, it had climbed with 10°C.A the entry of the city I stopped to consult my mailbox with the key 3G Maroc Telecom, nothing. Then I looked for a Laundry equipped with machines, it was closed. On the other hand Dades Market had rays supplied well but always without meat cans such as William Saurin, only of tuna or sardines. At the entrance of the city the road to Marrakech is still closed and kept by the royal gendarmerie until Monday, December 8. I decided to wait at the municipal camp-site for two days, without customer, if not me.