“Us others, civilizations, we know now
that we are mortals.” by Paul Valéry
It is essential to visit the places of memory in old declining Europe.
“Civilization, it is propagation.
Decline, it is transmission, therefore rebound, therefore survival.
Misadvised mourning cloth.”
by Regis Debray
This report is concise and hot fact. It is
neither exhaustive nor normative. For further information to consult
guide books, encyclopedias and to use search engines. I discovered Portugal
by preparing the trip with the Green Guide book by Michelin, on the trip
I were not disappointed quite to the contrary. Before I had approached
Portugal by some of its colonies, as its counters in India, Timor and
of course Brazil; I will visit others of them by continuing my world
tour on the African coasts.
The road plan,
here
was drawn up on 40 days and 8111 km from door to door;
actually I spent 80 days and 8131 km. I claim neither all sawn
nor to have visited all the memorable museums and monuments. To
understand a nation, people and its civilization it would be necessary
to be immersed several years and to master the language; when
well even Portuguese speaks either French or English. Admittedly the
French language is a handicap for the training of the other languages.
According to work by Alfred Tomatis, specialist ORL doctor and
researcher, the band-width of the French language is very narrow and
constituted by two beaches (100-300 Hz, 1000-1800 Hz), as example,
English evolves between 2000 and 12000 hertz, American on the other hand
have a more serious band-width starting to 1500 Hz, as for Russian, this
language has the band-width vastest and evolves between 400 and 12000
hertz. Of course other reasons take part in the failure of French to
the control of the foreign languages.
Brief historical overview
In antiquity Portugal was inhabited by the Lusitanians then fell under the
governance from the Pax Romana. Invaded by the Visigoths, they were
driven out by the Moslem domination from 715 to 1249, date of the
complete Reconquista of the Portuguese territory. More or less Portugal
was attached to Spain until 1143. The kingdom of Portugal lasted from 1087
to 1910 after the abdication of the king Manuel II. The republic was
founded to be replaced by the dictatorship Salazar in 1932 until the
Revolution of the Eyelets on April 24th, 1974. The democracy settled
with sudden starts to be definitively anchored in 1986.
Economy
In 1986 the government of Mario Soares involved two decades of
economic miracle. But the fall was brutal, terrible in 2002. Political
instability lasted until 2011 followed by a government which founded
drastic reforms, cuts in the public expenditure, freezing of the wages,
suppressions of bank holidays, rise in the VAT. Since 2013 a Socialist
government with the support, without distrust, of the Parliament of left
and far left parties continues the sequencing of the economy, successfully.
Of course there remain zones of impoverishment in the periphery of the big
cities. The price of the fuels is significantly higher than that in
France. Moreover three VAT rates apply to the consumer goods, 6, 13 and
23%. In Other hand a Keynesian policy of great works of infrastructure and
development of the BTP partly reabsorbed the unemployment of 17.7% with
the emergence of the middle-class of business. The observation showed me
that the car fleet is mainly made up by German premium cars, information
taken they are paid with credit over +10 years. The possession of a
high-of-range car takes part of the demonstration effect.
Civilization, culture, art and architecture.
The list of the
sites registered with UNESCO,
here,
testifies to the patrimonial wealth
within Portugal, 15 registered sites and 11 sites with the indicative list
for a small country. The 62 photo galleries of my Web site give of
it an outline which I hope for eloquent. The longevity of monarchy and
the expansion of the colonial field were at the origin of the
magnificence of the palates, the monasteries and the churches as well as
civil and military monuments as the fortresses built on Moors ruins at
the border with Spain. Moreover thanks to the treaty of Methuen in 1703
which combines Portugal in England, allows it to take part in the
coalition against revolutionary France in 1793 as in the Napoleonic
wars in 1801, 7, 9 and 10 which failed in spite of the talented futures
Maréchaux of Empire Junot, Soult and Masséna. Admittedly the
reorganization of the Portuguese army was made by the General Wellesley
future duke of Wellington. Thus, in spite of destruction operated by the
armies on the two sides, it did not have there by sales of national
goods to racketeers demolition contractors with the hooked fingers as in
France.
Others
I will evoke neither the gastronomy nor the sumptuous wines of which Oporto
leaving with each one judge some.
The landscape is resolutely of sometimes abrupt medium mountains on
deep valleys to the littoral.
Agriculture is of course directed according to the areas towards the vineyards,
the olive groves, citrus fruits and cereals without forgetting the breeding.
N.B.: While crossing Spain from Seville to the French border at
the pass of Perthus, I was amazed by wide fields of olive groves covering plains and
hills where worked with ultramodern mechanization.
The highway network is in general of good quality especially the recent highways
which are under the Free Flow mode. It is necessary to record by
photography the number plate and to pay a tax with a bank card on a
specialized terminal at the border, for example at Viana do Castelo;
then the gantries record the vehicle at its passage then the bank card
is output. But in what relates to me an error occurred at the time of
photography in the small hour of the number plate. Consequently I
circulated free on these highways, without being controlled, phew!
Portugal is follower of the topes, vibradores called gendarmes
lengthened in France, it is galley. It is also equipped with many
roundabouts even in strong current-countryside. Finally when the roadway
was D-aggregate the manhole covers and others are in hollow, the vehicle
falls into a hole.
The campsites are numerous in Portugal, I did
not attend them because I hate the promiscuity of the accumulation of
the vehicles as the sardines in limps. The camper-drivers have the
herd instinct of the nostalgia of their HLM. Although officially
prohibited, I practiced, when it is possible, the bush, wilderness camping; it
is necessary to be well in his head. Moreover as in much of country in
Europe, the free areas of parking marks out the country with, very
often, a terminal to empty the cassette of the toilets and to fill the
tank with drinking water which is unfortunately chlorinated making
undrinkable the green tea with the subtle taste. But supermarkets,
as Intermaché, Leclerc, Lidl, Continente etc. at low prices sell water
cans of 5, 6 even 7 liters although with a VAT at 13%. The southern part
of Portugal, Algarve, is over-populated by the Portuguese motor homes
and north-Europeans fleeing the winter without sun as well as the
supposed insecurity in Morocco!
I will keep an imperishable
memory of the reception, kindness, attention and obligingness of
Portuguese; a lesson for French, very often, scorning and disagreeable,
as I could note it during my world peregrinations. Although not
controlling Portuguese language I employed the formal endings at the time of my
contacts to the great pleasure of my interlocutors. By courtesy a
traveller must imply himself in the civilization of the visited country. Let us
not forget that a traveller is a Peeping Tom, an intruder even if it
takes part in the economy of the country, which does not justify an
inappropriate behavior at all. Some towns of too visited countries
regard the tourists as a pollution and found a numerus clausus.