Monday June 7 I followed route 870 off the beaten track and the horde of tourists. The landscapes are very harsh, arid without trees, a desolation; only the sheep subsist by grazing on short grass. From place to place, sometimes artificial ponds by the construction of a dike for the track. I was going to Raudinupur the most westerly point (N 66° 30.420' W 16° 30.134') of Europe excluding the Azores. Light rain fell intermittently. I stopped at the Kopasker grocery store and then a few kilometers further on in a parking lot called Katastadir with interpretive signs.
|Off the beaten track to Raudinupur|
Tuesday June 8 I left early in the morning, so to speak, the night, complete darkness is short. I arrived at an entrance gate in the park on Route 864 at around 7:27 am. After reading the information displayed, it took me over two minutes to understand the mechanism for opening the said barrier! The weather was frankly gloomy, no light and no color, everything is bland without contrast. The first waterfall, Hafragilsfoss, is easily accessible. However Dettifoss requires a 10 minute walk, according to the information panel, over rocks with steep stairs. It took me almost 20 minutes to get near Dettifoss. Certainly, they are impressive, but far from African Falls or Niagara. Dettifoss' return to the parking lot was a piece of bravery. Route 864 is an advertised 4x4 track; but it is practicable, during my passage by 2x2. I bivouacked near the interpretive panels of the R1 road not far from the junction with the 864.
|Enter route F864 towards Dettifoss, story without words. "I am not Buster Keaton"|
Wednesday June 9 was a day of desolation, rain & fog, during the visit of Dettifoss-west and Selfoss from road 862 (asphalted). In addition, the Vesturdalur site is not accessible under works. No longer having any appetite for hiking in the rain, I abstained. I continued on my way to Asbyrgi to refuel fuel and food. The local supermarket is poor and expensive, for tourists. I filled the tanks and five-liter cans with water for drinking at the deserted campground. Then I sat down to the Information Center with my two laptops to install the Windows 10 Wednesday monthly update as well as the large Buster Keaton video post, No One Is Perfect. I returned to the Vesturdalur parking lot to bivouac. As a reminder, the videos are made continuously by the Dash Camera sucked into the windshield.
Thursday June 10 the morning began with a ray of sunshine. I was rushing back to Dettifoss-west. I had time to take a few pictures before a grain fell. I took the opportunity to do maintenance, indeed the direction change indicators and the horn were no longer working. I was looking for the fuse in question, one by one, because the instructions are in Tudesque language! I decided to try my luck to go to Askja caldera knowing that the tourist information had told me that the F88 road was closed; well yes, it was. But I am stubborn. I was going to see if the F905 and F910 roads were open; well no, they were closed. I bivouacked there. I said I'm skipping school. The afternoon was cold but sunny.
|Enter F88||Enter F905|
Friday June 11th I opened an eye to the all white surroundings. The outside temperature was 0°C at an altitude of 490 meters above the sea. Again I sank into my sleeping bag. The day was looking gloomy with overcast skies and an average temperature of 4°C. The visits were not frivolous. On the way I passed near the "geothermal power station"; this is the occasion to say that Iceland is 100% renewable. The access to the Viti-Krafla crater was muddy, slippery and steep; I stopped halfway down the hill. The show was not there, the crater lake was whitish and not the deep blue as advertised. Shortly before, but visited after, Leirhnjukur is supposedly facilitated by a board walk, but it is partially smashed requiring to wade through the mud. Before arriving in Reykjahlid I ended with Hverir with its sulphurous mud and fumaroles. The spectacle would have to be splendid as geothermal energy is omnipresent in a very colorful landscape. Alas, alas, alas everything was dull, bland unattractive. My route plan took into account the trip to Greenland canceled at the beginning of June by Hurtigruten. At the risk of being confronted with the horde of tourists, the advice is to travel from mid-July to mid-August. In Reykjahlid I went shopping at the local supermarket. As already said the prices are soaring, a 500 gram jar of skyr, Icelandic yogurt, is sold 450kr in Egilsstadir and here 629 kr, where is the error! Only the price of diesel is the same (229.90 kr per liter, around 1.558 € per liter), regulated price.
Saturday June 12 I woke up with a completely white environment. The outside temperature was -0.5 ° C. I set out to explore the lava sites sculpted by the entropic erosion of time. In the order of the photos in the gallery below it was Dimmuborgir, the most spectacular, of which I rode the yellow & red circuit. Then Höfdi offers sculptures immersed in blue water. Skutustadagigar presents pseudo craters which I only visited closest to the shore. Finally the last photo is that of Hverfjall appeared 2700 years ago. It is possible to hike to the top of the crater after a steep climb of about 20 minutes to an altitude of 452 meters; I abstained. I finished the day after administrative work by taking a bath at Myvatn Nature Baths.
Sunday June 13 was another day of snow. I was going to Hverfjall to see, if the climb was possible, of course it was not with visibility of a few meters. In Skutustadagigar I took the photo from the previous day, under the snow. Finally I took a picture of the mountain Vindbelgjarfjall, obviously under the snow. I continued to a parking lot called parking lot in a field where bags were stored. It was still snowing and the temperature was -1.5 ° C. The wind was strong pushing gusts of snow. Around Myvatn Lake all possible parking places have a no overnight bivouac sign.