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Morocco

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-- From 2014/12/22 to 2014/12/28
-- From Taliouine to Icht
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The GPS road tracklog
From Taliouine to Icht
From 2014/12/22 to 2014/12/28

Anti-Atlas

Trip to go

On Monday, December 22 a way of connection carried out me from Taliouine to Igherm then to a few kilometers away to the south for a pastoral bivouac in stones. This road by mounts and valleys, three passes at +1800 meters of altitude, crosses wadis whose infrastructures, foundation rafts and bridges, were carried by their risings caused by the pouring rain on the beginning of December when I was in Foum Zguid. It will take several years to repair the damage. I hope that weather will remain with the good shape during my visit of the Anti-Atlas, Inch Allah!

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Villages in mountains
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Damage

Qa track, visit of agadirs

On Tuesday, December 23 was one half-day of visit of two Agadirs after having taken a track with the km 27.2. The track is a pure happiness for the DPM with the crossing of several wadis. Agadir is a set of collective attics in the Atlas. They are boxings superimposed on one, two or three stages where the villagers store their grains for the winter and other food products.

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Working Moroccan DDE, condition of Moroccan women

Agadir Ousmgane

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Two stored attics
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Agadir Ousmgane

Agadir Itourhaine

Agadir Itourhaine with boxings on three stages is still used. Whereas I climbed the hill at the top of which it is while hoping there to see the guard, I was caught up by an young woman with an enormous key who me made it visit going up with me on the terrace as well as at the top of the tower of angle. To thank me for my visit she gave me an almond bag. The videos have as background noise the strong wind which prevailed with a temperature of 10°C, brrr! I bivouacked on a height at +1500 meters of altitude. This early morning the outside temperature was of 3°C and inside of 5°C.

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Three stored attics
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View from the terrace Angle tower
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View from the top of the angle tower
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Agadir Itourhaine

Agadir Tisguimt

On Wednesday, December 24 I began the day with an error of navigation. After having crossed several wadis and  progressed in the bed of the one of them I arrived in a village on a very narrow track. I went in recognition and I was dubitative. Back to my truck I warned a country-woman who indicated to me with her hand where the track was. I returned to my bivouac to discover the track!

Error of navigation & young woman close to Tisguimt

The agadir of Tisguimt is a true fortress built on a rock piton including more than 300 boxes of attics. The amin, guard of agadir, explained me, there were men armed to defend it against attackers. He offered to me the tea of welcome. Then he authorized to me to take pictures of him and two children. After Aït Abdallah I looked for a bivouac away from the asphalt road on a height for a HF good wave propagation.

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Decorated doors
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Sticks of rifles of the agadir's defenders
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Closing of a door Wooden key
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The amin, guard, & offering thea
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Brother & sister ?
Agadir Tisguimt

Tafraout

The Christmas Day was a small driving day. After the full of diesel fuel and food I was going to lunch in the best restaurant in Tafraout “the Kasbah”. Of course for this day of the nativity in Muslim country I offered me a wine bottle of Morocco. Before leaving I stopped at the “House of Barter” to make me a present of a nomad carpet. I bivouacked at the exit of Aguerd Oudad. Altitude is +1000 meters with a hot sun in a misty atmosphere.

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X'mas lunch at La Kasbah

Tour of Afella Ighir

The tour of Afella Ighir traverses the gorges of Aït Mansour and Timguelchte with return by Tigharassine in a loop starting at Talouste.

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Tour of Afella Ighir
Le 25/12/2014
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Napoléon's hat

On Friday the 26th I began the Afella Ighir loop which I did not finish due to road closed after the village of Tanrarte, road flooded by the risings of the beginning of December. I did not reach Tizerkine and I returned back to stop before Souk Had Issi. I did not intend to again traverse the gorges and especially the palm plantation with its very narrow track during approximately 3 km. Consequently I decided to take tomorrow the cross-road from Gdourt to Iserbi departure of the Gb Gandini's track. The gorgess are certainly interesting but it is especially the imposing palm plantation where it is almost impossible to cross another vehicle and where branches are very low.

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Gorges Aït Mansour
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Village Gdourt
Aït Mansour palm plantation

The evening of December 26th around 19:30, the royal gendarmerie came to dislodge me for my safety, or for its peace! I was to follow it to station in front of the brigade. In the morning I traversed the cross-road passing by Aït Bounouh in landscapes with dramatic colors under the morning sun. At the intersection with the road from Tafraout to Tiznit, Tafraout 32 km, I decided to go there to publish pictures and videos then to consult my mailboxl. Indeed connection with the Maroc Telecom 3G key is fast.

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Traverse of Aït Bounouh
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painted rocks by Jean Verame

Qb track, canyon de l'assif n'Smouguene

I took again the road then the Qb track around 12:30 to arrive on a kind of DZ (drop zone) headland which dominates the canyon as well as the village of Igmir. I bivouacked on the spot in this exceptional beauty & peace landscape.

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Canyon & village Igmir
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After a peaceful night above the canyon Smouguene and a sumptuous low-angled light illuminating my truck I undertook its descent “pure moments of happiness”, Gandini. It is true that the track is sufficiently broad to turn his attention on this fairy-like landscape in the morning light. Then the progression is in broad valleys where confluent several assifs. I had decided to return to Icht to pose again my home in Borj Biramane. The next week will be devoted to the visit of Guelmim, Sidi Ifni, Tiznit and Agadir where my friends Marie & Jean-Luc expect me.

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My truck in low-angle light at 7h30
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Down into the canyon
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Igmir village
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arganier
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Village at the edge of n'Tamanart assif
Down the canyon n'Smouguene
Eternal female