The exit procedure from Ecuador then entry in Peru lasted approximately an hour. The causes this length were in Ecuador the slowness of the computer of the immigration service and in Peru the incompetence of the customs officer to stock the information necessary for the delivery of the license to circulate, a young colleague came in reinforcement. No need to give photocopies. On the other hand for Peru it is necessary to make stamped the information sheet of immigration by the police before presenting it, then it is necessary to buy the compulsory insurance before presenting itself to the customs. A customs officer sticks a label on the windshield. All was done in good mood.
Very quickly the landscape changes compared to Ecuador. After Las Lomas it is quasi deserted during hundreds of kilometers. I stopped in a village away from the road by asking for the authorization of spend the night, which was granted with much kindness and attention.
Lunch puase at the edge of a canal | Bivouac |
On Wednesday, December 23rd I wished to go to Kuelap. The distance was large and the trip proved to be difficult with a succession of gorges and valleys and a summit at +2100 meters of altitude. Moreover the rain took part in the deceleration of my progression without forgetting topes and other speed reducers. The roads are also with tolls! Tired I decided to stop into Chachapoyas at 2384 m of altitude on the carpark of the Hotel of Paris often used by travellers in the motor homes.
Thursday, December 24th I traversed the road #8b from Chachapoyas to Cajamarca i.e. 329 km in nearly 9 hours. pauses included in the mountains with a top at 3600 meters high and a low point around 880 meters between two mountain ranges. The way began under the rain and in the fog/clouds to finish in Cajamarca under the sun at 2700 meters high. Most travellers carry out the trip into two or three days to admire the landscapes and neighborhood sights. But in what relates to me, planning obliges it was quasi a rally, slowly. Of Cajamarca I do not see that the principal place to take money at the cajero automatico of Interbank as well as a stop in Clinica Limatambo Then I drove to bivouac in splendid Auberge San Antonio.
Friday, December 25th, Christmas Day, Jesus' nativity, I went down from
Cajamarca by the road #8 to join the Pan-American at "Ciudad de Dios",
that does not invent myself. A few 60 km further northwards in the south
of Chiclayo, a bivouac in the desert recalled me my trip on the Moroccan
tracks which I liked so much. Up to the junction the plain at the bottom
of mountains is cultivated in rice plantations with irrigation canals.
Alas the roadside is strewn with refuse. In the afternoon a strong wind
from the sea rose to refresh the atmosphere, forecasting a cool night.
The waypoint of track entrance on the Pan-American towards the
bivouac is: S 06° 56,225' W 079° 43,565' on the right coming
southwards. The track is good travelling.
On Saturday, December 26th I visited three museums of recent construction in the neighborhoods of Chiclayo. In Ferrenafe Museo Nacional Sican exhibits the counterpart of tombs among largest of Peru as well as interpretative panels of the various cultures and techniques of ceramics and metallurgy of copper, gold and platinum. In Tucume the museum at the bottom of the pyramid is very didactic with ceramics as well as interpretative panels of the various deities of the prehispanic cultures. Finally in Lambayeque Museo Tumbas Reales de Sipan in a modern construction shows the royal tombs of Sipan in a modern museography but alas too dark to read the English comments. Moreover No Photo, I was recalled to the order by a cerberus. Regrettable because the exposed objects are of great beauty. I decided to return to bivouac in the desert hidden behind the hill after having made shopping in the supermarket at the southern exit of Chiclayo.
On Sunday, December 27th I visited in Trujillo, again 30 years after, the site of Chan Chan capital of the Chimu empire. It is the vastest pre-Columbian city in the Americas and the vastest city in adobe in the world. Its population is estimated at approximately 60,000 inhabitants. The archaeological complex is composed of four sites, I visited the museum, under reorganization, as well as the Palacio Nik-Year, vast whole of parts of reception and ceremony in adobe. Built around 1300 AD this city, of eroded adobe walls, view from Pan-American gives a lunar impression made abstraction of the current houses neighborhood, all also dilapidated. I intended to remain at the Camping Garden RV Park in Huanchaco but it was closed for restoration. I was installed on the beach.
Huanchaco, La Playa |