On Monday, October 24th while arriving at Puerto Madryn I found the drinkable water supply point close to Prefectura, then the collection of the booklets at the Oficina de Turismo and a complement of breakfast in a café with a Wifi connection, of course asthmatic. To finish in this city I made supply at the Carrefour Market before leaving for Gaiman which was created by Welsh emigrants in the years 1870. With the booklet of the tourist office I made the tour of the ancient houses. I found a bivouac close to the Bethel churches.
A person met with Puerto Madryn had praised me the beauty of Camarones. On Tuesday, October 25th I thus made a detour of +75 km to go to visit this village on seaside. At the entry and in front of Oficina de Tourismo a police officer, to occupy himself, stopped me to fill his notebook with information from my passport and automobile license of my vehicle. At the tourist office the hostess, a charming young-lady, gave me many information concerning the village. Then while leaving she tenderly embraced me on the two cheeks. What a kindness these Argentinian! Well, this village does not have anything exceptional, except the landscape of the seaside. For rewarding me I lunched of crawfishes with a glass of chardonnay in a small restaurant. Then I took the coastal track to find a bivouac at Pescadero.
Sailors from Saint-Malo, France, discovered and occupied islands at the 16th century that they called “Les Malouines” according to the name of the inhabitants of Saint-Malo. They were expelled by the Spanish conquerors. Later the British occupied part of the islands according to their technique of creation of a commercial company as in Canada. In spite of the Falklands War in 1982 with a 74 days occupation by the Argentinians, the Falkland Islands are always British. On the roads in Argentina panels recall: “Por Siempre Las Malvinas son Argentinas”.
Wednesday, October 26th started with an icy drizzle. But around 10:00 the sky is cleared up with clouds breaking into white horses. I crossed Comodoro Rivadavia without stop. At the entrance of Caleta Olivia a file of trucks was in parking and the police diverted traffic without indication of the route to follow. I wandered in the city to leave it. I found a bivouac at the edge of the ocean. The road is still long for Ushuaia, 1,400 km.
On Thursday, October 27th I left the seaside to go to see fossilized trees in Monumento Nacional y Reserva Natural Bosques Petrificados. Museo is very didactic with fossils, photographs of fauna and of course interpretative panels. The trip makes approximately +1.5 km curving in the hills where the gigantic fossilized trees stay. I give here the link with Petrified National Park in the USA which I visited in April 2011 then in November 2012. The page layout of my site evolved during years. The museum has a Wifi connection, but the guards did not know the password! Moreover it is prohibited to camp on the carpark. I further established my bivouac on track RP #49.
Bivouac on trail RP #49 |
On Friday, October 29th at the forefront of day I traversed the track to join the ruta national #3. In my way I collected low-angled light on the sumptuous landscape as well as a guanaco on the peak of a hill. On the way I warned a panel indicating Camino Costero a Pto. San Julian. I took this five-kilometer detour to skirt the coast in a sublime landscape in spite of an overcast sky. I stopped to bivouac at Punta Panomarica to 25 km of Pto. Julian.
RP #49 lumière rasante, low-angled light |
Camino Costero |
On Saturday, October 29th was a very long driving day as of early dawn from San Julian. Three events occupied this day. The crossing of frontiers between Argentina and Chile which was carried out in a common complex for both countries and lasted little of time due to the absence of tourist. Then it was the ferry in Chile to cross the Magellan Strait. Two boats make the shuttle because there are many trucks. I was lucky to embark on my arrival at the quay. Then the road is partially asphalted in the Chilean way. Consequently I arrived tardily at the border post between Chile and Argentina. There are two distant posts about five kilometers. There too the procedure was quickly dispatched because the travellers do not stop on their way. I didn't know the history of the conflict between Argentina and Chile which involved the division of the Land of Fire, for reading on Wikipedia. I bivouacked close to the border post of Argentina at the edge of the ocean. The night was announced cold, it was it with +1°C at daybreak.
En route |
Ferry, Magellan Strait |
Bivouac San Sebastian |
Sunday, October 30th was a short driving morning after having done the administrative job not carried out the day before having arrived tardily and tired after 633 km of tarred and ground road. At Rio Grande I started by assuming the constraints, diesel fuel for my truck, at YPF, and food for the driver, at Carrefour-market. Then I was going to check the localization of Mercedes-Benz where on Monday morning I will give an appointment at my return from Ushuaia in order to carry out the periodic revision. Then I found a bivouac, as usual on seaside, it was 16:00. I finally thought of being able to lunch!
Bivouac Rio Grande |